Saturday's walk

My Saturday walk started with my waking up a bit after 5 a.m. I dressed, made sure I had my provisions (a bag of trail mix, a package of tissues to use as toilet paper, three bottles of water, my portable phone charger, and its cord), and headed out to the Express Bus Terminal, where I was to catch a 6:45 a.m. bus to Goesan (괴산, pronounce it something like "gwae-san"), a gun (county) about two hours south of Seoul. Express buses are one of the few aspects of Korean culture where everything is ruthlessly on time, at least when it comes to departures. You can't afford to be even a minute late for your bus, or you'll be stranded. I was early in arriving at the terminal, so I had about forty minutes to kill. Found my bus's departure gate and waited. Soon enough, I was let on board the bus; there weren't many people going down to Goesan, so I had my pair of seats all to myself. We arrived in Goesan almost exactly at the two-hour mark, at 8:50 a.m. Only five minutes late.

Finding a taxi was easy enough; the Goesan terminal, like many Korean bus terminals, had a taxi stand. The driver proved to be friendly and talkative; he asked all the usual questions about how I learned Korean, what I thought of Korea's four seasons (I told him that most Americans found the claim funny since most American states also have four distinct seasons), etc. He then wandered into somewhat bizarre territory, asking questions about the scary cost of health care in the States, and marveling that the mainland US was so big that driving across it would take days (unless you're Ed Bolian).

I had shown the cabbie a photo of the pillar-like memorial stone that stands at a rotary in the village of Yeonpoong-myeon (see below), marking my starting point; he recognized it, but he used his GPS to get us where I needed to go. Yeonpoong-myeon was about 20 kilometers away. I also made sure to ask the driver whether I'd be able to use my Kakao Taxi app to summon a cab once I had hiked to my destination, and he said yes, of course. That was a relief.

I got out of the cab right by the memorial pillar and started right up the 5K hill that marks the beginning of this particular segment of the Four Rivers trail. The walk was awesome in terms of the weather, and I was fortunate that there were several restrooms along the way. One problem, though, was my feet, which really ached by the end of the walk. I was wearing my new Merrells once again, and I don't think they quite agreed with me. I told myself that, next time, I'd put the orthotic insoles from my New Balances into the Merrells to see how that might work. But when I got home and took off my right sock, I saw that my right big toe was looking pretty beaten up (steel yourself for a pic at the very end). There's more going on, here, than just an insole problem. I'm going to give the shoes the benefit of the doubt for now; maybe they just need breaking in. But if this problem continues, I'll have to go back to my New Balance walking shoes. It's probably not a question of the Merrell brand's quality; it's more likely a question of how good a fit for me Merrell is.

Anyway, I kept pausing and taking pictures, so my pace was under 4 km/h. When I do the walk with JW next week, I won't be shutterbugging, so I ought to go a bit faster. I got a bunch of images for you below: nearly 700. Click to enlarge; you know the drill by now.

where I got dropped off

under a bridge and right up that first 5K hill

the always-reassuring Four Rivers sign
(underneath is an ad for a biker's minbak, i.e., simple overnight lodging)

up we go

first rest area in 2 km ("rest area" literally means for resting, not for going to the bathroom)

There used to be a 5.0K marker, but that seems to have disappeared.

Shim Gi Gol

upward and curving rightward

I have Lisa Simpson's head.

It's a bright, beautiful day.

Stairs always intrigue me.

3.7 kilometers to Ihwaryeong (the hilltop).

There were quite a few randomly parked vehicles during the ascent.

cherry blossoms everywhere

already high up

jeonmangdae (observation deck)

the valley below

farmland

the occasional vehicle (never too many on this ascent)

first of several eaten ears of corn

3K to the top

ah, the struggle

2 point something K to the top

I think he caught me taking his picture.

When I think of Hitachi, I don't think of little earth movers.

anti-landslide netting

Ihwaryeong, 1.5K; observation deck, 350 m

350 meters later...

This sign's a bit misleading: there's no lodging on the hilltop. Not that I know of.

1K to go

a map of the whole Saejae portion of the Four Rivers trail

500 meters to go

"Watch for Ice"

10% upward grade (that would be 9 degrees)

It's really not that serious of a slope.

100 m to go!

and here we are

happy camper

The most prominent structure on the hilltop is the Ihwaryeong gate/tunnel.

I think the large Chinese characters name the province: Choongcheong-bukdo.

Not sure how to translate this, but I think it's meant to be poetic. Something like:
"The soaring Baekdu Daegan (mountain range) becomes one with the veins of the nation's land"...
which is an awful translation. Charles?

that view (and we're not done yet)

a marker that says "Saejae Bike Path"

A map with all the Saejae-related information assembled in one place.

Korean biker dude strolling

"Baekdu Daegan Ihwaryeong"
Baekdu Daegan is the name of the mountain range that the Saejae path passes through. I'd been warned, in 2017, that the Saejae portion of the Four Rivers path was really mountainous, but this 5K hill was the "worst" part of the path, and it wasn't that bad. Farther along, in the Nakdong River section of the Four Rivers path, there are at least two really nasty hills for walkers. There's actually one more nasty hill on the Nakdong trail, but it can be avoided. I did that hill in 2017, then never did it again.

just enough English for you to know what you're looking at

If you go back, that's Choongcheong-bukdo Goesan-gun.
If you go forward, that's Gyeongsang-bukdo Mungyeong City.

Ihwa-jeong

"You MUST wear a mask." See why people think you're supposed to mask outside?
Because of signs like these.

Again, not sure exactly what this says. Maybe:
"Mungyeong Saejae Lover's Hill"?

the magnificent view on the other side

this appears to be a big, shameless ad for a chicken place

more stairs to mystery

We just did 5K up, and now it's 5K down. A relief.

Threatening sign: "MUST wear a mask. If you don't, it's a W100,000 fine." I feel as if I'm in Busan again.

"7% downward slope"

peeking down into the valley

This trail doesn't take us anywhere near Mungyeong City Hall.

marker for Mungyeong City (one of many)

The white puffs in the midst of all the verdure are cherry trees. Note how they cluster in ravines.

The butt-goats are everywhere.

This turned out to be a damn fine shot.

"Watch out for bikes." Probably a message for drivers, not perambulating Kevins.

trickle, trickle

Someone has a sense of humor about gloves.

quite a few of these bikers

well, hi, Officer

another jeonmangdae (and by now, I need to take a piss)

still on the right track

It's hard to tell, but that tilled earth is steeply angled.

sign warning of temporary closure of this particular jeonmangdae

same sign, but at the other end of the observation deck

I didn't see that many abandoned gloves this time around.

I think the idea, here, is that it's slippery in both rain and snow. And that snowman looks as if he doesn't fuck around. That is one deadly serious snowman.

Somewhere around here was a turn-off, and I ended up taking a whizz there.

I believe these are apple trees. They'll be heavy with apples in the fall.

coming up on my favorite ladies: the cows (not visible here, alas)

these are bales of hay

makeshift gutter

metal shwimteo

Sanbul joshim means, literally, "mountain fire—careful," but a more
natural translation would probably be "Watch for forest fires."

Bikers whizz past. Many bikers unwisely apply their brakes most
of the way down these hills. Good way to wear out your brakes.

This intersection caught my eye for some reason.

coming level with civilization

another shwimteo

Gakseo 1-li bus stop

shwimteo with crates

residence roof

residence front

What do they sell when apples are out of season?

a uniquely chromed-up vehicle

The sign says "Mungyeong Honey Apples."

tall, skinny tree

digital zoom to capture this arfer, who still doesn't recognize me after all these years

rest area (shwimteo)

caught another arfer

No, dammit, don't walk out of frame!

almost lupine

the two arfers in frame together

Guess I gotta turn left.

now right

Korean Beef Town coming up!

shwimteo across the creek

I assume this trellis will look better in the summer.

getting close to Korean Beef Town

Lab experiment

wasn't very interested in me... 'cause I'm a foreigner

sickly, growly little thing

bridge to where?

dog photos

dog sculptures

Korean Beef Town! I should stop here sometime.

pottery place... also intriguing

faded Four Rivers sign

Saejae Bridge

a view of the creek running under the bridge

as with many Korean creeks, there's construction going on

turning right to head toward not-quite-downtown

I'm always confused by signs that point away from the city you're in
but label their arrows with the name of the city you're in. What gives?

"Protect Nature"

a standard bush, but look more closely:

aha! plastic drink bottle! naughty!

the big ol' gate to not-quite-downtown

The top row of Chinese was easy to figure out: Mungyeong-mun, i.e., Mungyeong Gate.
The second row eludes me, however: [something] South Big Street (X nam daero)... dunno.

horsies (it's a shell hiding night-lighting for the gate)

"Mungyeong Saejae"

the motel I never stay at because it appears too soon

Jinan-ni bus stop

phallic sign for "motel restaurant"

more restos

the omija-cha place (omi refers to "five tastes," which you get
when you drink this juice—sweet, sour, bitter, etc.)

"pottery experience"

Cheongun-gak (cultural spot), 1.5K
Mungyeong Traditional Market, 2.5K
Mungyeong Hot Springs, 3K
Dansan (Dan Mountain) Monorail, 8K

I kept seeing these purple flowers that were shouting, "Photograph us!"

So I did.

"Omi Country"

Mungyeong Healing Recreational Village

coffee shops in the distance... part of the healing, I guess

a place that deals in ceramics?

I normally walk on the left side, but the sidewalk is gone thanks to construction.

It's rare to see one of these scooters with a rider.

another tunnel under construction

lots of people huffing and puffing by me

I took another piss right around here somewhere.

"Sharp curve—absolutely slow down!"

the tantalizing promise of a restroom, but too late as I done did my business

I hate these creepy fuckers.

motel, one of several in this area

Don't go down the left fork!

only just planted

shwimteo

about to cross the street and go right

interesting walkway

Again, I'm not sure what this means. "Weekly Cultural Center"?

lanterns for the Buddha's birthday (May 8 this year)

One of the names for the Buddha's birthday is "The Day the Buddha Came."
Which sounds vaguely nasty.

Yes, Sakyamuni! Give everyone the finger!

I believe this is a bus terminal. But no buses.

And there's the sign saying "Mungyeong Bus Terminal."

"Central Car Industries"

You have to walk through this slice of town before you reach a quieter part of the path.

Café Old. Always amuses me.

Fourth ad down is for a big dharma convention. Lots of big-name monks, I guess.
Second from the bottom is a badminton-club ad.

Things are getting quieter.

a bizarrely vine-covered rock

not even gonna try to translate this

big shwimteo with a tent under it... someone is camping there

more stairs to mystery

a closer look at our camper

a vine-covered shwimteo/pergola

that distinctive stack of apples

Mungyeong Hot Springs

문경전씨관향-something... can't figure this one out

No idea. "The Origins and Deeds of Mungyeongjeon-ssi"?

an almost African-style sculpture

Yongbae Park

"Four Great Rivers, End-to-end National Path
Saejae Bike Trail"

This building is new, put up within the past two years.

that one pointy mountain... weird

This is a muin-tel, literally a "no-person motel," i.e., an automated motel where you register yourself without the help of any staffers, although I know from experience that there are staffers who will run out from some hiding place to help you if you seem confused (as I was the first time).

I do love this particular stretch.

some sort of Seoul University facility (not sure what an injaeweon is)

sign for Bongmyeong Temple

where I took a life-saving dump (and thank goodness I brought my own paper)

Temple of Poo from the side

right turn, Clyde

the Maweon 3-ni bus stop (technically, "3-ni" is written as "3-ri" in Korean, but because of certain pronunciation rules, it's going to sound like "sam-ni")

bridge stats

I think this says "Maweon Bridge."

cracked wall

the absolute simplest shwimteo design

You've been a bad little chair.

digital zoom!

more outside staircases, a mark of Korean architecture

I think these are the beginnings of persimmon leaves. (Tell me if I'm wrong.)

glove hanging out of window

I love lone couches.

Closeup of a skittish bird. They fly away the moment they see a human stop
moving, almost as if they've evolved to avoid hunters taking aim.

This looked fairly artistic. Build back better!

cracked wall

chairs all lined up because they've done something bad

I thought this might be rice at first, but the lack of water makes me think that's wrong. Maybe these are onions of some sort. Either way: spring planting.

a peek over a wall

shwimteo combining old and modern

shwimteo, with person

As always, I'm attracted to dilapidation.

no cats on these hot, tin roofs

Why are so many older-style dwellings sunken down into the earth like this? That can't be practical when you think about floods and seepage and foundations.

I think this says "Three naughty kids on board."

That a Union Jack I see? What's that doing here?

a tap (makeshift cairn/pagoda)

Bongmyeong Bridge

blue triangle: "Bike Crossing"

a reminder that we're on the Saejae path, shared by bikes and cars

Could someone please explain to me the farmer's obsession with empty plastic water bottles?

"Construction under way—SLOW! 100 m ahead."

rough-tilled soil

"Danger! Sharply curved road!"

The Chinese under the stone says choong-hyo (忠孝/충효, faithfulness and filial piety).

I'm always fascinated by the architecture.

used-up sut or yeon-tan (Korean charcoal, often used for cooking)

slightly veiled shwimteo

house with sculptures and pagodas

Are they for sale?

note the precariously stacked rocks on top of this pagoda;
the term tap means both the stone pagoda and the cairn-like stack of rocks

I thought this might be a residence at first, but now I think it might be a business of some sort.

irrigation

When the field is filled with water like that, I usually think rice.

Don't know who he was, but he was walking faster than me while jabbering on his phone.

hello, ladies

the ol' chair-against-the-tree scenario

a sign for Chinese food

successfully capturing a crane convention

This sign notes that Ihwaryeong is 15 km back, and Sangpoong Bridge is 38 km ahead.

passing under a bridge

shwimteo

sparse pines and a sparse campground (I've seen this place with more tents)

yet more external staircases

the jumble

strange but fascinating masonry

shwimteo at the campground

I saw the lady owner of this chair... normally, when I see these, they look abandoned.

glamping in the distance... God, I hate glamping

digital zoom to the rescue!

I tried photographing this person at a distance, but s/he bent over right as I clicked the button.

tree-rection

As long as I see these signs, I know I'm not lost.

cherry blossoms waning, but still beautiful

beautiful stretch

I got worried when I hadn't seen this sign for a while. I thought it had been taken down. But no!

my guy

right turn coming up

I think it says "Bongdeuk-gyo," or Bongdeuk Bridge.

1.2 km to the nearest bathroom... except that there's a bathroom right here

the tilling before the planting

road to mystery

lone cherry tree

on the right track

big metal dandelion

big and little metal dandelions

Bongsaeng Bridge

Bongsaeng Bridge bus stop

stone indicating Shinhyeon 3-ni; the right-hand column says "my hometown"

about to cross over

Jinnam Rest Area

a straight-on shot of the well-stocked rest area

angle + shadow = makes me look fat

rest area's back area, with parking lot

pines

leaving the rest area, now, and doing the final 3 km

note all the pottery (hangari, I think)

I think this bridge takes you to some sort of omija experience.

classic-looking shwimteo

a complex containing restaurants

shwimteo

I paid closer attention, this time, to how the bridge had been painted.

reflections of the local culture

This looks like the dilapidated backside of a restaurant.

a pension

restos

What's a "Pany Haus"?

"Mungyeong Love"—sexy!

another resto

This door somehow seems new to me. I may have to try this place sometime.

modern shwimteo

another threatening "Wear your mask!" sign

Turtle! What did they do to you?! Anyway, the water was nice. I took one of the available plastic ladles and gulped some down. Good mountain water.

top sign: Saejae bike path, shared by bikes and cars
bottom sign: Chinese food (Baekni-hyang, "100-li Aroma")

still on the right path

This final huge curve signals that we're near the end of this segment of the trail.

These are chili peppers, bleached in the sun. They look ghost-white, so should I call them... ghost peppers?

1 km to the cert center

This always weirds me out a bit.

the sculpture shop I always pass at this juncture

arfer

another arfer angle

I forgot to get a closeup shot of that donkey sculpture. (See the donkey?)

leaving the sculpture shop behind

the path next to the freeway

Hillside sign: "Drowsy driving: You're gambling with your life."

shwimteo

Lots of traffic, but unlike on the east coast, I was separate from it.

Mungyeong Buljeong Station Cert Center, 500 m ahead

Mungyeong Buljeong Station Cert Center, 500 m ahead

approaching the final turn-off

The bus stop's center text says, "Buljeong Village Front"

the last, comforting downhill into this tiny village

one of the squat houses along the final stretch

approaching the town

Baekni-hyang, which is the restaurant advertised a while back

I saw this "Buono, Buono" place a couple years ago. I wonder how much business it gets.

Buljeong Station, wide shot

San Gwa Gang, the pension I usually stay at

a shot of San Gwa Gang Pension's sign

Buljeong Station, restroom entrance

Buljeong Station, exit

cert center

They've still got the old, 2017-era map hanging here.
By about 2017, the east-coast trail down to Busan had been completed.

a skanky-looking glove

end-of-the-trail selfie

my Merrell-damaged right big toe

So yeah, my right big toe came away looking kinda' bad. I'll stick with the Merrells a while longer, but if this problem keeps up, I'll have to switch back to New Balance somehow, even if that means continuing to use the New Balances I bought last year, despite the wear on the soles. Hope you enjoyed this very long photo essay of Saturday's little stroll. I also hope all the pictures load for you because I'm having to manually reload some pictures as I work on this blog entry. Images are memory-intensive; they're bogging down my computer. And here's a bit of trivia: if I walked 26K and took nearly 700 pictures, that averages out to a picture every 37-ish meters. No wonder I walked so slowly!