Absolute bombshell in the culinary world. South Korea just went to Paris and WON the global baking competition, beating the French at their own game. Korean bakers are taking European styles and adding local twists. The new kings of bread! pic.twitter.com/YE78P8zFym
— Furkan Gözükara (@FurkanGozukara) March 30, 2026
You could also argue that, once the concept of bread came to Korea, the creative possibilities for cultural mingling exploded. Like the Vietnamese with their bánh mì baguettes, Koreans have recipes for bread that also include rice flour; down the street from me, Kim Young-mo Bakery has a weirdly chewy-yet-charming baguette that's partly made with rice flour and covered in black-sesame seeds. Is this baguette in fact Korean, or was it imported from the Japanese? Probably the latter, but when I've bought the baguette, it's always been from Kim Young-mo (Kim, and maybe his sons, too, trained in Paris). Koreans love multi-grain rice, which probably explains why so many Korean sandwich breads are covered in crazy constellations of grain and often shot through with same: The multi-grain concept already existed in some form on the peninsula (think: ogok-bap/오곡밥, or 5-grain rice; there's even ten-grain rice) before multi-grain breads rose into prominence here.
Honestly, I have mixed feelings. All cultures borrow from each other; all cultures appropriate non-native things and make them their own by putting their own local spin on them. This isn't evil: It's only natural and normal, and I wish all of the oversensitive Americans who think cultural appropriation is a sin would just explode into bloody spray and leave the rest of us alone. To that extent, whether Koreans are borrowing and then riffing off bread that has come to Korea via Japan or Europe or the States is irrelevant. But the simplest question for food is: Do you think it tastes good? And sadly, I have to say that, in Korea, bread has been seized upon and, in many cases, buried under the addition of so many local-culture flourishes and curlicues that most of it just doesn't have much appeal to me. Simpler is usually better, which is why I love a good, old-fashioned jambon-beurre or—even better—saucisson-beurre.
All of which is to say that I don't mind if Koreans keep trying to find new, breakthrough tastes and shapes and whatnot as long as Koreans don't mind that I think 95% of their efforts in this direction are crap. I'm not saying that to be bitter, haughty, or snobbish: Mother Nature herself works in much the same way, relentlessly producing variations of life, most of which prove to be unviable or just more of the same thing, and only a tiny fraction of which will ever prove superior to what has come before. So I hope Koreans do keep innovating, but I also know I'll have to wade through a lot of shit to find the good stuff.
Korean and Korean Americans run a couple of chains of bakeries near me. There's usually one in or near the local H-Mart. The bake goods and coffee are very good quality. I hate the whole concept of cultural appropriation. I think Elon Musk has illustrated, with rockets and cars and other things, that outsiders bring a new perspective to things and advance the art in ways that those on the inside just cannot.
ReplyDeleteI hate that cultural appropriation is demonized, mostly by the left in the States. Cultural appropriation is simply something that happens—neither good nor bad—when cultures interact.
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