I found myself out in the Seoul National University neighborhood Wednesday evening, having dinner with my buddy Charles and his wife HJ. They're prepping for a trip to the States that starts next week (read more about it here), and they told me about some of the difficulties they're going to face in the States since HJ isn't American: according to Charles, the top eleven national parks in the US have a policy of charging foreigners (i.e., non-Americans) an extra fee on top of the entrance fee to get into the park, and part of the couple's trip involves visiting some of these parks.
When I was recently in the States, I got charged to enter Shenandoah National Park, so I ended up just forking cash over for a year-long pass, which made random visits easier. It's too bad that foreigners at these parks are being charged extra.
In that spirit, I just now asked the AI god whether this was a Trump-era policy:
Yes, this is a policy enacted under the Trump administration. Stemming from a July 2025 executive order, the Department of the Interior introduced a surcharge for international tourists.
The policy outlines specific surcharges for non-U.S. residents (ages 16 and older) at 11 of the most popular U.S. National Parks (Acadia, Bryce Canyon, Everglades, Glacier, Grand Canyon, Grand Teton, Rocky Mountain, Sequoia & Kings Canyon, Yellowstone, Yosemite, and Zion):
- Standard Surcharge: A $100 per-person fee in addition to the standard entry fee.
- Annual Pass: A $250 annual pass (which waives the $100 per-person surcharge).
Now if, as conservatives insist, the problem in the US isn't the legal foreigners so much as it's the illegals (an attitude I can stand behind), I do have to ask why we're gouging legal foreign tourists in this manner. A hundred bucks per person (per foreigner) to enter a preeminent national park is asking a helluva lot.
I met Charles and HJ close to Seoul National U. Entrance Station, and we wandered into the local back streets after deliberating and eventually deciding on a meal of donggaseu... or per the Japanese romanization, tonkatsu:
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| our resto: Chang Hyeon Tonkatsu |
Interestingly, it was suggested that we order our meal via phone since HJ had, I think, already done the work of reserving a table for us as we were walking. I can feel myself slipping behind when it comes to modern tech. When my brothers visited me after my heart attack, they were able to navigate Seoul like pros, with no help from me, thanks largely to AI and various helpful apps. Charles and HJ seem just as capable, leaving me to feel like a fogey.
Here's the happy couple, smiles pasted on for the photo:
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| I didn't ask permission to put this photo on the blog, so I might be in trouble. |
We all decided to order the pork tenderloin. I didn't say anything about it while we were talking at the table, but it was pretty fucking incredible: perfectly cooked, perfectly tender. I do recall tossing off a stupid joke—before we got our meals—about how the chef might be gunning for a Michelin star, and HJ mentioned that a building next door had a Michelin-rated resto in it. And if I'm not mistaken, Charles said that the chef here was pretty serious, too.
We'd all ordered the same thing. Tenderloin on any farm animal is called anshim-sal in Korean, and we all got the pork tenderloin (the ton in tonkatsu comes from a Chinese character for "pork"). Each of us got six tenderloin medallions (see below), some shredded cabbage that served as the landing space for an addictive salad dressing (cream, herbs/spices, and an immodest amount of sesame oil, also visible below), some tiny sprinkles of salt, a small lump of wasabi (Charles said to put it straight on the meat since there was no soy sauce to mix it with), some julienned and pickled radish (I think... look next to the chopsticks in the image below), some mugwort tea (surprisingly good), and some rice and soup, which I apparently failed to take a picture of.
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| most of the meal (minus the rice and soup) |
I did the crass thing and dumped my rice into my soup. This was a carby meal, so In for a penny, in for a pound.
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| mugwort (ssuk/쑥) tea |
Ssuk is not to be confused with 쑥갓/ssukgat, or crown daisy, whatever the AI god says—
I asked Charles and HJ about 쑥 versus 쑥갓, but they both affirmed those are different things. Do not trust the AI god, which is a trickster.
I had a second helping of shredded cabbage since I loved the dressing so much. Soon enough, though, the wonderful meal was over, and HJ—who, by the way, teaches Korean to foreigners—took her leave. Three became two; Charles and I adjourned to a nearby gelato place where you can order tiny or huge containers of gelato (W5,500, W19,000, W31,000 sizes) in two or more flavors (depending on the size of the container), plus an extra spoonful of another flavor you might be curious about. So I got mint chocolate chip (regular chocolate was sold out), pistachio, and a tiny sample of tomato-basil at Charles's insistence. Frankly, I hadn't been looking forward to the tomato-basil, and while it turned out not to be as terrible as I'd thought it would be, I doubt I'll ever go for that flavor ever again. (I'm remembering the moment in Defending Your Life when Albert Brooks digs into a piece of something resembling burnt shit, tastes it, coughs, then demands, "This is what smart people eat?" No, the tomato-basil wasn't as bad as burnt shit, and I didn't hate it at all, but I did have to wonder how anyone could actively like that taste... for which there is no accounting, or so I've heard.)
As I waited for my tiny cup to appear, I saw this guy:
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| What a way to die, eh? |
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| And I had to capture this bit of humor. Please do not tap on the glass. |
Afterward Charles, perhaps mindful of my heart, took us on a non-strenuous route out to the main road so I could catch a taxi back to my place. My section of Gangnam and Seoul National University's neighborhood are both connected by Nambusunhwan-no, a single street with a lot of traffic lights and a lot of traffic. It still takes a long time to get to Charles's place from my place. I normally budget a lot of time to get there.
Chang Hyeon Tonkatsu: an amazingly good dinner, all in all, and a place for me to revisit one of these days. The gelato place was excellent as well, and while I might not applaud the tomato-basil, I did love the mint chocolate chip and the pistachio. And I'll grudgingly applaud the gelato place's adventuresome spirit in concocting the tomato-basil flavor, which did taste distinctly of tomato and basil. Not for me, but it's for somebody.