I went out to Front Royal and Skyline Drive again, this time to walk the 2.5-mile stretch at the very beginning of the Drive and up to the first overlook, called the Shenandoah Valley Overlook, elevation 1390 feet (about 424 m—not very tall, and the starting elevation was 600 feet, or 183 m). The Blue Ridge Mountains have a lot in common with Korean mountains. They share with Korean mountains that same low, rounded quality produced by time, erosion, and other forces. These sorts of mountains are ancient. By comparison, the Swiss Alps and other alpine ranges like the Jura, the Vosges, and the Himalayas are mere teenyboppers.
It was another cloudy, cool morning, but the weather forecast has been saying that temps today would be around 80ºF (about 27ºC). I got sweaty as I ascended the relentlessly upward-slanted road, so I took off my jacket and tied it around my waist, bringing me one step closer to how I sometimes look on a trans-Korea walk. The only thing missing was the bandanna on my head. I was using it to mop up the sweat, but in the end, I decided not to wear it on my head. It was a short enough walk, and there was no reason to go full-on with the regalia.
There was a timid doe at the very beginning of the walk, but it was the only one I saw the whole time. She held her ground until I got very close, then she suddenly snorted and bolted back a few yards and went still again. I did my best to remain as inoffensive as possible, but I did snap the following shot:
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a skittish doe (click to enlarge) |
Otherwise, the walk was about what I thought it would be. I do think, however, that I added some distance by parking as far from the ranger station as I did (Mile 0 starts at the station itself, I think), so the ascent was closer to three miles than to 2.5, making this closer to a 10K walk than to an 8K one. As a walker, I still had to show my ID and park pass (acquired just the other day) at the station. The ranger—the same long-haired guy as yesterday—wished me good luck, and I rambled onward.
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First, it's called a "bump"... |
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...then, it's called a "hump." The things you notice when walking, not driving. |
The other day, I had noticed that the road to the first overlook was one long ascent, which is what had prompted the thought about doing this short stretch—going up and then back. I was in constant, mental self-check mode as I walked upward, wondering whether the rise would cause me any angina or a full-blown coronary. Nothing happened aside from a slight, faint feeling of pressure that might've had more to do with being out of shape (as I eternally am) than with something as dramatic as a new and dangerous blockage.
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uphill, uphill, relentlessly uphill |
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deadfall (there was a fire warning on display, too) |
Plenty of deadfall along the way. I again had wistful thoughts of how much I'd be enjoying myself were I a wood sculptor. Maybe I should look into woodworking when I get back to Korea. I tried to take note of mile markers, but I failed to notice them as I passed them on the way up. Perhaps I had been too lost in my own thoughts. Not the best way to hike mindfully.
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The road goes ever on and on... |
By walking on the left, I didn't have to worry about cars coming up from behind me—at least on the ascent. On the way back down, it was a different story because "left" put me on the other side of the road, i.e., the side with more cars going up and southward. Most of the drivers were as considerate as most Korean drivers have been in my experience, sometimes moving, like Koreans, all the way into the opposing lane to give me a wide berth (or maybe I'm just—that—big). But going down was a far less pleasant experience, especially as the morning wore on. Skyline Drive remains a very popular tourist/touring spot, and by the time I finished the walk, there was a huge line of vehicles trying to get into the park, ranging from cars to SUVs to loud, blatting motorcycles, all funneled into the one lane of the ranger station, where everyone had to either present an ID and pass or pay for a one-time entry. This traffic was what I'd been encountering.
As I descended to the ranger station, cars kept coming at me in clusters of two or three or more, remarkably like in Korea no matter which mountain road I've been on. I used to think to myself that Koreans, with only a few exceptions, were physically and constitutionally incapable of doing anything alone, so it became a mantra whenever I saw a peloton or pair of bikes or a pair or group of cars: Where there's one, there's always another. But seeing this behavior in America has made me rethink that cynical thought. Maybe the clustering can't be helped because of the nature of how traffic is managed. Anyway, going down was far less pleasant than going up had been: I was constantly forced off the smooth, level asphalt and onto the wildly canted ground next to the road (more ditch than shoulder). It was a relief when I finally saw my car and could walk on level pavement.
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Someone didn't have an antilock braking system. Older car? |
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A pup and a way. |
The weather was cloudy and seemed to be threatening rain, but aside from a few drops while I was driving (the same thing happened yesterday), there was no downpour—just a stingy smattering of droplets, and nothing once I got out of the car to start the walk. By the time I got back into my rental, I saw that the dashboard was reading 81ºF (27.2ºC). It sure didn't feel that hot, maybe because the cloud cover was blocking the worst of the direct sunlight.
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There was never a dip down, almost like the 5K hill up to Ihwaryeong. |
OK, maybe that caption's an exaggeration. The 5K hill up to Ihwaryeong does, in fact, have a few brief points where it at least levels out. If there are moments on that hill where the road descends for any significant distance, I don't remember them. But this Skyline Drive ascent was purely an ascent for sure. No breaks.
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almost at the destination |
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Here's the pull-off for the overlook. People are there (click image to enlarge and see the people). |
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once again looking out and beyond |
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a glance at the blighted trees before starting back down |
As I mentioned, the cars were more numerous going onto the Drive and heading south than going north. As I walked southbound along the Drive, I kept left, as we do in America for safety's sake. Same on the way down. (Korean signs on paths and public stairs will often say 우측통행/ucheuk tonghaeng or 우측보행/ucheuk bohaeng (roughly, "stay right" or "walk right"), but Koreans obey this guideline only randomly. Some Americans violate the protocol, too, both in Korea and the US.
It was a good walk, but I think I'm going to stick to doing regular trails from now on. Before leaving for the States, I had made a short list of some trails to do, along with their locations along the Drive, so I might start doing those tomorrow. Meanwhile, tonight, I'm meeting my buddy Mike (and possibly members of his family) for dinner at a nifty, new Korean place called GogiGo. Here are some neon quotes that Mike sent me from the resto's interior:
Korean-fluent people: give me your best translations.
PS: GogiGo's menu is here. Note all the non-Korean items. This sort of bizarre eclecticism is common in American restos, where distinct cultures are often mushed together in a weird, postmodern fusion: Indo-Pakistani, Indo-Nepali, Sino-Japanese, Korean-Japanese... and God only knows what we've done to African food.